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Wednesday, June 5, 2024

Goodbye Kilimanjaro and Tanzania, June 5, 2024, Ray M

Goodbye Kilimanjaro and Tanzania

Leisure day at hotel, farewell to Tanzania

Outbound to Iringa,, June 5, 2024
By: Ray M


We spent our last night in Tanzania at the Maasailand Safari Lodge in Arusha.
Mark and Carol S had an early flight so left very early in the morning.  The rest of us had the evening flight on KLM so we had all day to relax.

Later in the afternoon, the rest of us gather to leave:


Leaving Masailand, on our way to the airport


One last look at the sights of Arusha ,,,


Arusha sights (upper-right: Post Office building - its walls curve!)

Just before the airport, we stop for a debrief session with Amos Lufumbilo (owner of Migration Venture Africa, our safari company)




On the turnoff to JRO (Kilimanjaro International Airport), our final view of Kilimanjaro


Our last view of Kilimanjaro


In Friendship and Peace


Tuesday, June 4, 2024

Mto wa Mbu + artist colony, Maasai boma, drive to Arusha, June 4, 2024, Nancy S

Fire starting demo at a Maasai boma

Mto wa Mbu + artist colony, Maasai boma. drive to Arusha

Outbound to Iringa, June 4, 2024

By: Nancy S


Today we chose to have a leisurely morning. The twelve of us decided to sleep in, have breakfast at various times, and be ready with our luggage by 9:30 am.

Our initial stop for the day was in Karatu Village (on the way to Mto wa Mbu, 17 miles ahead) at a large art and souvenir center selling jewelry, paintings, sculptures, masks, and a variety of other items. Our group certainly helped the economy of Tanzania at that locale.

Ebony carvers


Next we went to the town of Mto Wa Mbu (Mosquito River), which is named for the river it is by: the Mto wa Mbu, which flows into Lake Manyara just to the south). Our guides were Daniel and Nuru. They were both excellent. 

Daniel, our guide


We started by having red bananas which means the skin is red on the outside. They basically tasted like yellow bananas, but have more nutrition. We saw green bananas bring prepared for shipping, but they should be yellow by the time they reach their Tanzania destination. 


Bananas

As we walked down the street we passed a government primary school, a ficus tree, and several shops.

Our next stop was an art center. As we entered we saw one man painting the head
of a lion. A gentleman explained to us about the three types of paintings we would see. We then walked around to observe the artwork. Several were purchased.



Shaina & PJ with the artist



Finally we went to the market. It was similar to other markets we had visited. Daniel pointed out some of the vegetables and a piece of limestone which people in the area lick or chew to replace missing minerals in their diet, especially for pregnant women. Our tour had ended, so we got back in our vans to head onward for our next adventure.

It was now time for a rest stop and lunch. Another tasty and huge meal was in our bags. This time we had a piece of chicken and a cup of rice as the main portion. There was also a small veggie sandwich. One thing that was different was a bag of chips. And it was at a local restaurant - could eat outside or inside. Not bad!


A Maasai Boma was our final event for the afternoon. We had seen one before, but this one was totally different. They wrapped our upper bodies with pieces of their cloth and tied them in the front. The women in the group then got a beaded neck piece to wear. This group of Maasai was a huge family. The Chief has eleven wives. The men assisting us were brothers with different mothers. They all performed a dance for us, and in one section the men jump to see who can jump the highest. 


Jumping contest


We then joined them for one last dance. After the dance, they walked us through the gate that protects their homes from wild animals. 

One of the brothers showed us how they start a fire by rubbing the point of one hard piece of wood onto one point on another softer piece of wood . First you see smoke and then a tiny ember appears. Some straw or cow dung is put near the ember and after some gentle breaths of air a flame appears. (See top photo).

After that we got to see the inside of their homes; two people accompanied each host. The one we entered had a small entrance and was dark inside. His wife and small child were inside in the living portion of the home. There was a fire going and meat was cooking. Right next to that was another small room which is where they sleep. They were eager for us to share a meal together, and asked us to try piece of beef with them. 

Maasai house

Inside the hut

Doorway


Then we went outside to walk in a big circle of crafts made by the wives. I saw one coaster I liked, but they were only sold in sets. 


Handicrafts to support the village

Once finished with the shopping our group headed toward the vans. Some of us watched the game with stones and a board with cups in it.

Now it was time for our ride to Arusha for our final night. We returned to the Masailand Lodge. After drinks at the bar, we had our dinner. Carol and Mark have an early morning flight, so we said our goodbyes to them. Then off we went for our final night’s sleep in Tanzania. We could all dream and reminisce about our outstanding home stay and safaris. Thank you Ray for planning such a fantastic journey.

In Friendship and Peace


Monday, June 3, 2024

Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater, June 3, 2024, Mark S


On our way out of Serengeti: a Kori Bustard

Serengeti to Ngorongoro Crater

Outbound to Iringa, June 3, 2024
By: Mark S


After a very early breakfast, we left our tented lodges at Tukaone Tented Camp for a dawn game outing on our way south to Ngorongoro Crater.   Saw a lot of wildlife including a make and female ostrich, and 2 rare Kori Bustards. 

As we were leaving Serengeti on our way to Ngorongoro, we stopped at the entrance/exit gate to Serengeti.  We waited while the drivers took one of the vehicles back to retrace our route a bit -- one of the spare tires had fallen off on the corrugated road.  And then the other vehicle wouldn't start and had to be pushed.



We had TWO spare tires when we started!


Giving it a push start


After a long drive, we got to the rim of Ngorongoro Crater, at about 8000 ft elevation.


Ngorongoro crater rim: clouds rolling in

The Ngorongoro Crater floor is about 5700 ft elevation, and has its own ecosystem of predators and prey.

Life on the crater floor

Flamingos along the lake in the crater

Grey crowned crane & chick

Spotted hyenas just waking up from a nap in the mud


Lions sleeping, couldn't care whether we looked or not


Rhinos were hiding out until mid-afternoon

The road up from the crater floor was steep.  The route climbed through dense forests and by a waterfall.  We eventually got up to the crater rim and a view spot overlooking the crater floor:

Our guides/drivers Denis & Noel

We drove by some baboons at the Ngorongoro exit gate and continued to the Ngorongoro Forest Tented Lodge (which was actually not tented and quite nice).


Ngorongoro forest Tented Lodge (well, it used to be tented)


In Friendship and Peace


Sunday, June 2, 2024

Serengeti balloon ride, June 2, 2024, Ray M

Preparing for launch

Serengeti Balloon Ride

Outbound to Iringa, June 2, 2024, 
By: Ray M


Four of us (Mark S, Carol S, Steve F, Ray M) got out of our tents [Tukaone Tented Camp, Serengeti] at a ridiculous hour and were on the road at 4:06 AM.  It was interesting driving at night on remote dirt roads through the savanna – lots of wildlife we never would have known was there: Lesser Genet Cat, 3 hares, owls, and 4 hyena.  A couple of the hyena did not seem particularly afraid of the vehicle -- they seemed to get closer out of curiosity.  I would not want to have been walking out there.  

Daudi ("David" in English) was the balloon company's driver who was taking us to the launch site. Daudi was Maasai and had grown up in a pastoral tribe moving from area to area near Maasai-Mara.  He somehow studied hard, got through secondary school and became a safari driver. During the drive he shared lots of insights about the animals.  He had a deep knowledge and he pulled out some of his excellent reference books - with cloth binders, and well-used.  About hyenas: he told how one time he was driving to a remote camp (like the one we were staying at) by himself to pick up or deliver something.  It was off-season, little traffic, and his vehicle got stuck in a mud pit.  No one around.  He waited 3 days, meanwhile hyenas started gathering - eventually 60 of them.  He did something to scare them off for a while (I hadn't had any coffee when he was telling me, so I can’t remember, sorry!), put some branches under the car and somehow got himself out.

The drive was 1 hr 45 min.  At the launch site, the hot air burners were being tested and the balloons were being laid out for takeoff.  Still dark, we were all grateful that pots of coffee and hot chocolate were available.

Dawn at the launch site


Our pilot/aeronaut was Captain Yellen, from Turkey.  There were two other balloons launching with us, one had a Spanish pilot, one was US.  

They explained the launch process. The balloon is laying down, as is the basket we are to sit in.  The basket has benches to sit on, so that means we climb into the basket (which is on its side) and sit on the bench which is also on its side – meaning, our back is to the ground and we are looking up. We have safety harnesses clipped in.  

Captain Yellen started the burners – with a mighty roar and a glow that lit up the area.  The ground crew held on to the ropes while chanting and singing a launch song.  The balloon lifted itself upright and we were off, just after sunrise.


Captain Yellen preparing for liftoff


Launch crew, and another balloon

The balloon went high at first, maybe 3000-4000 ft.  From that altitude, we could see herds of wildebeest out to the horizon.  Had to be hundreds of thousands of animals!  

Part of a Wildebeest herd


But of course at that altitude, each was just a dot.  So we went closer, and closer.  When we got down to a few hundred feet, the animals could hear the roar of the burner as it came on periodically to keep us at altitude.  The animals (wildebeest, hyena, elephant, zebra) all were running as fast as they could to get away – to me, they acted terrified of this giant thing coming toward them roaring.  




We dropped very low, right over a hippo pool.  It seemed like we were almost touching them but probably we were at 100 ft.


Almost close enough to scratch its ear?


The balloon perspective was different than from the road in that we got an appreciation of how immense Serengeti is, and how immense the herds are.

We landed just before 8 AM,  67 minutes air time.  Nice job to be a pilot (if you are morning person) – all your day’s work done by 8 AM.

After the flight, we were taken to a separate picnic area for a Champagne breakfast.  Very nice, and lots of Superb Starlings around looking for handouts.  Also some Slender Mongooses.

Superb Starling



Slender Mongoose (Wikipedia picture)


We rejoined the rest of our group to continue their game sighting drive.


 In Friendship and Peace




Serengeti National Park - game outing, June 2, 2024, Lynn Meyer





Serengeti NP- game outing

Outbound to Iringa, , June 2, 2024
By: Lynn Meyer


Four of our group of 12 elected to get up very early and do a balloon ride followed by a champagne breakfast (see prior post).

After the rest of us woke up at a normal time and had breakfast, we headed out to pick up the ballooners. On the way two dik-dik ran into the road and ran in front of us for about 200 meters .
After passing a few zebra and wildebeest (gnu) we saw a small pride of lions cross in front of us


One of the females


Then we saw a herd of Cape Buffalo at a distance (no photo)


and 3 topi


We were a little late to pick up the ballooners but there were lots of vehicles in the waiting area including 2 from the Four Seasons. After a washroom break we headed out, again into the middle of the Great Migration


Wildebeest - Great Migration


Saw hippos, a heron walking across the road , then more gnu!

Saw some cars parked in the distance watching lions. We took a long detour but arrived in time to see a lion and lioness come out of the bushes and copulate in front of us.


Lions copulating

Then we got info about some lions in the trees




Lioness in a sausage tree


We were going to go straight to lunch but the guides heard on the radio that a cheetah had taken a kill


Cheetah at lunch

It turned out to be 2 male cheetahs which had finished their wildebeest dinner and were relaxing in the brush.

After lunch we got into a rainstorm that left the roads more difficult to negotiate. Got a good rainbow and saw some hippos


Hippos under the rainbow


We got home in time to see the sun set


Sunset at Tukaone Tented Camp, Serengeti

We had a nice meal for dinner and went to bed early to get up at 6 AM tomorrow for an early safari on our way back to Ngorongoro .


 In Friendship and Peace




Saturday, June 1, 2024

Manyara to Oldupai Gorge & Serengeti National Park, June 1, 2024, George M

      
Serengeti: 2 female lions on a kopje 


Manyara to Oldupai Gorge & Serengeti National Park

Outbound to Iringa, June 1, 2024,
By: George M



[Heart & Soul Lodge, Manyara area]  After breakfast the staff sang farewell to us. Then when they learned today was David Barnes’ birthday they sang Happy Birthday to him. It is also his 39th wedding Anniversary with Teresa.

On the way up the hill we passed two overturned trucks , one in our direction which was new and one in the other where the load was being transferred to another vehicle. Both vehicles overturned on curves. We drove to the entrance to Ngorongoro [the road to Serengeti takes us through Ngorongoro - we'll be back!]

A group of government secretaries on a tour; Noel’s (our guide) sister- in-law


As we climbed up the rim we were in fog until we reached 7700 feet when we broke out. We passed a Maasai village with lots of cattle then a group of giraffes


He was right next to the road


This eagle posed for us


Lots of zebras, wildebeest, Thomson  gazelle and Grant gazelles.
We drove around a lake with lots of flamingoes. Then we headed to the Leakey museum above the Olduvai Gorge and had a briefing about the Leakeys and their pioneering work on the origin of Homo Sapiens.  [Note: The museum guide explained to us that the correct name for the area is "Oldupai", which in Maasai language means "the place of the wild sisal", which is common in this area,  The German doctor who originally named the area in the early 1900's had misunderstood the Maasai pronunciation and wrote down "Olduvai" instead, so that is how it still is listed on maps.]


Olduvai Gorge [Oldupai Gorge], 48 Km long


After traversing the Ngorongoro Conservation Area we entered Serengeti National Park  and saw our first lions sunning on a big rock in the distance:

2 female lions on a kopje

We then found ourselves in the middle of the Great Migration ( wildebeest and zebras). Apparently the zebras lead until the river with crocodiles but, being smarter than the wildebeest, they let the wildebeest ford the river first. I estimate hundreds to thousands of animals migrating north to follow the water


The Great Migration ( animals as far as you can see)

We also saw several  Marabou storks perched in trees and saw some small elephants but did not have time to stop and photo them. 

Marabou storks


We arrived at our tented facility just at sunset. 


Our luxury tent


We had a nice dinner and hit the sack by 9:30. 

 In Friendship and Peace